- Jan 21, 2019
- 2 min read
Updated: Feb 1, 2019
Welcome to this small glossary post about names and descriptions of various vintage neckwear. This blog is an ongoing project - new definitions and examples will be added in due course. From a time of fierce business rivalry and "patent wars", we are all victims to the imaginative semantics of vintage manufacturers, where similar products are known by different names. Here are some examples of that confusion layed out in plain english (in no particular order)...
TECK - "A readymade imitation of the knot tied with a four-in-hand scarf". Used to describe pre-tied "neck ties" and scarves; of which there are unlimited designs; neck straps were adjustable.
FOUR-IN-HAND - "A long necktie narrow where it goes around the collar but with widened ends."
SHIELD BOW - "A bow tie without a band, attached to a shield which fastens by a loop to the collar button and engages the folds of the collar; worn only with turned-down collars."
BAND BOW - "A ready-made bow tie with a band passing around the collar and fastening at some point, usually at the back."
STOCK EFFECT - Neckwear with a risen part at the centre-front in the style of a stock.
SHIELD KNOT - Similar to Shield Bow (qv); a necktie or scarf without a band which fastens to the front collar stud and the folds of a turned down collar.
PUFF - "(1) A neck dressing made of a De Joinville or an Ascot scarf, first tied in a broad knot and the ends then crossed over; (2) A readymade cravat of the same effect."
DE JOINVILLE - "A neck dressing, a plain, flat strip of satin or silk which must be folded before it is put on, and is passed thru a flat (gold) clasp or "scarf ring", having a hinge at one side and a spike or projection on the inner side of the rear part for engaging and keeping in place the adjusted tie; sometimes this clasp is made with a hinged pin; also the scarf is frequently tied as an ascot, puff, once-over, waterfall, etc."
SCARF-RING - "A flattened ring in one piece, or with a hinged pin, or hinged and with a spike on the inner side of the back part, thru which a scarf (as the De Joinville [qv] is drawn).
TWICE AROUND - Neck wear that is wrapped around the neck, or appears to be wrapped around the neck, twice.
FLOWING END - A Four-In-Hand scarf or cravat with extra large aprons.
APRON - The widened ends of large neckwear like scarfs, Full Dress Protectors and the like; usually following on from a thinner neckstrap.
MIDGET - A word used to describe neckwear that has a thin neckstrap of 5/8" and/or thin aprons. Midget neckwear began surfacing in 1902 when neckstraps were reduced from 3/4" to 5/8" on some designs.
STRING - A bow tie even in width from end to end (typically 3/4"); for evening wear; ends are squared, pointed or beveled.
BATWING - "a shaped tie for wear with highbanded folded collars". The definition of batwing is perhaps one of the most divided, therefore, I remain loyal to the definition above provided by A Dictionary of Men's Wear, 1908. One industry catalogue describes it as "...a batwing is a short and small tie without any long, flowing ends...It is a small, compact little tie" (1916).